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Local Customs

As part of field training, I was required to learn and perform duties as Forest Guard (the lowest rung in the Forest Department), as Forester and as Forest Ranger. For the initial training, I was deputed to Taklech, a small village about 15km from the nearest pucca road. The place had a Forest Rest House dating back to 1885, and it was there that I deposited myself for the duration of my training. Although I was technically performing all the duties and tasks of a Forest Guard, the staff knew who I was and the Service I belonged to, and treated me with somewhat more respect than a Guard would normally command.

As I went about my Beat, inspecting forests, detecting forest offences, and issuing Damage Reports, I was accompanied by the regular Forest Guard, Shiv Ram. He not only shared with me his knowledge and skills in the field of forestry, but also the local culture and traditions of the villages and habitations in his jurisdiction. This was all new and strange for me, city bred as I was!

One of our tours took us to the remote village of Darkali. As was the custom, the Pradhan of the village hosted a dinner in our honour. Shiv Ram and I took our places on the floor alongside the Pradhan and some other distinguished folk of the village. Soon, bowls filled with a milky white liquid were placed before each of us. On asking, Shiv Ram told me it was a local brew made from fermented rice, called 'chhang'. "But I don't drink liquor," I told him. "You have to, Sir," he said, "otherwise the host will feel insulted." I gathered my courage, held my breath, and downed the entire contents of the bowl in one gulp. I do not know whether the stares my act attracted were of admiration or incredulity, but attract attention I surely did!

As soon as I kept my bowl down, a fellow came around and, despite my protests, filled my bowl with the foul smelling fluid once again. I looked at Shiv Ram in desperation. He, in turn, spoke with the Pradhan in the local dialect. Turning to me, he said "Sir, you should not have placed down your bowl right side up. If you did not want any more, the bowl should have been placed upside down. I am sorry but you will have to drink this up." I could have said no, and refused to drink, but this was my first interaction with the local populace and I did not want to 'lose face', so to say! So ..... 'bottoms up' once again! This time I took care to place my bowl upside down.

Since then I have visited hundreds of villages and attended hundreds of village feasts, but never again did I empty the bowl at one go, nor forget to place the bowl upside down once I had finished!. In fact, for a long time after my marriage, I continued placing my cup upside down after finishing my tea, much to the annoyance of my wife. She has since weaned me out of the habit ....

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